Sunday 20 December 2009

Christmas (?) cookies!

Yes, despite the lack of "Christmas in the streets" here (or probably because of it), I decided to make some XMas cookies!! (yes, for those of you who know my (absolute lack of) kitchen skills, this does make one shrudder!) But I needed to get into the holiday spirit, and I did want something to be able to give as a gift to people (and there's just not much 'gifty' type things to buy here!!).

So, last week I noticed that the grocery store had M&M's for sale (and one gets used to the fact that if you see it and you *think* you might like it - buy it (in bulk). Because the stores don't have a regular inventory...who knows when you might see that item again). So I bought M&M's and found a cookie recipe online for M&M cookies.

Next step was to do my "baking supplies" shopping trip - which included some challenging items (baking soda), and some which needed further research to find a substitute (brown sugar (= sugar + molasses (no go) or honey (go!))!
Here are some of my baking goods - it's always neat to see how things are packaged in another country. The flour is pretty easy to pick out (looks just like how it's packaged in the US). The sugar is packaged in plastic bags (to the left of the eggs). Eggs come by the dozen or 20 - and are packaged flat and shrink wraped. The two golden packets are slabs of butter (like how we'd find Philly Cream Cheese). M&M's are easily id'd anywhere! And the box at the front is baking soda.






Yum - cookie dough! :)




My friend, Ginny, graciously offered the use of her (western) kitchen. I actually had a blast making my cookies - and they turned out really well. They spread more than I had expected and are very thin. They also were done at the lower end of the baking time range. But they're yummy, and now I have goodies to give people as holiday treats!



Here's a picture of some of the cookies - not a great picture, and they look better than this in real life! :)






While I was sharing pics of groceries, I also wanted to share some of what 'basic' groceries look like......

Milk on the right, juice in the middle and spicy ketchup on the left. The milk and juice usually come in .5 liter cartons. No skim milk here. There's a wide selection of juice - this one (as you can see from the pic) is a combination of orange, apple and carrot - and is actually really good. The ketchup is not at all like Heinz - it's a bit spicy, but a great addition to almost anything I cook.

I was really happy to find small cannisters of salt and pepper (I certainly didn't need to buy a larger supply of salt!) But I was really surprised to find them packaged as 3's - salt (white), black pepper (black) and red pepper (red). Given my lack of taste for spicy food, I don't think I'll use much of the red pepper!!

There's always lots of bread available - and it's good! But very high in calories - and many ppl here (expats) have mentioned trying to stay away from the bread to maintain their weight. But at this point, that's the least of my concerns. I eat (and love) the bread - and I've lost weight since I arrived here. Here's a picture of nan (the TJ word for bread) - with my cellphone to give a sense of scale (yep - I've already been enjoying it!). The bread also comes in 'round' loaves (rather than oblong). Bread is traditionally very important for the TJ's. The first thing they do with their monthy paycheck is buy flour (they all make their own bread). They buy flour in 50 kilo sacks (quite diff't from my baking purchases!) and one sack will not last a month.





And you never want to be w/o a good supply of potable water. Safe drinking water is sold like this (5L bottles) - I tell you hauling these from the market to my apt is my upper body workout! This is for drinking (and w/ coffee/tea) and teeth brushing. I wash my dishes, and clean myself with tap water. If I'm boiling something (pasta) I also use tap water. Tap water varies daily in terms of the color (it's never completely clear) and smell.

One interesting thing when shopping is that some of the products are from Tajikistan (and labeled in Tajik), while others are imported - mostly from Russia (and labeled in Russian) - and some from Iran (?) (and labeled in Arabic script). So when I try to figure out what something is - I first need to figure out what language it is in (which can be difficult for Russian vs. Tajik, since they both use Cyrillic). If you look closely (or blow up the picture), the bottle on the right is labeled in both Tajik (above the picture of the waterfall) and in Russian (below). You can tell by the vocabulary (water is 'Ob' in Tajik and 'voda' in Russian), and there are some letters that only appear in one of the two languages. Still, all this adds an extra level of processing required just for a quick trip to the market for staples. No wonder my brain is so tired all the time!! :)


Please note the following disclaimer: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the INL Fellow's own and do not represent the International Narcotics and Law Enforcement Affairs Program or the U.S. Department of State".

Sunday 29 November 2009

Zeloni Bazar (Green Market) - Russian name

This posting is way overdue. Here are (yes, finally) some pictures from the Green Market - one of the large outdoor markets/bazars in Dushanbe. It's the best place to get veggies. In the warm months, there was an amazing selection of fresh fruit. At this time of year there's still lots of carrots, potatoes, and onions - and grapes (?). There is some fruit, but mostly from abroad, and quite expensive. You can buy almost anything here, including household items and clothes. But these pics focus on the produce. I didn' t take the pictures - but I will try to get there with my camera when the selection is a bit more colorful!

Welcome to the Shokhmansur Market (Tajik), Zeloni Bazar (Russian) or Green Market (English - translated from the Russian).

Here are some of the veggies: Tomatoes, cucumbers and looks like lemons further back. Everything is sold by kilo. Last weekend I bought 1kg potatoes for 1.40 Somoni and 1kg apples for 4 Somoni. The exchange rate is about 4.40 Somoni per USD. Most of these veggies are local - and quite delicious. I've been careful to scrub them with detergent and then let them soak in boiled or bottled water for several hours before eating - and haven't had any tummy issues.

Needless to say, these people don't speak much English - but will try to overcharge you if they think they can get away with it! So this is where I've been practicing my Tajik! :)
More tomatoes - and it looks like beets or turnips further back and cabbage.


The ever-present cabbage! The vendors seem to be equally men and women.




Big sacks of onions, potatoes and carrots. You can 'rent' these wagons (and a 'driver') to help with transporting your purchases. I've never bought that much to make it worthwhile. But I can tell you that these wagons have the right of way and stop for no one and nothing! :)















This looks like leafy greens - cabbage, parseley (?), green onion, and looks like perhaps some eggplant in front of the counter. The eggplant and cucumbers are about 1/2 to 1/4 the size of what I'm used to seeing in the US.

You can also buy pasta and grains in bulk - as well as carrying sacks (hanging above). And, yes, please do note the prominent display of "Barf"!

These look like nuts, and I think I see some dried fruit (apricots?) in the second row (again, I didn't take these pics, so I'm not sure). This is also how spices are sold in the bazar.

Here's how meat is sold here in the bazar. Despite the fact that it looks like this gentleman might be cold, these are not in cooled or refrigerated areas (many are outside).

From what I've seen - there are animal parts for sale that I've never seen before!

Needless to say - this is not where I buy meat!

Again, I'll try to get to the bazar with my camera and take some more pics when there's more to see in the market.

Please let me know if you've any q's about things in any of the pictures - hopefully I can clarify!!

Please note the following disclaimer: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the INL Fellow's own and do not represent the International Narcotics and Law Enforcement Affairs Program or the U.S. Department of State".

Tuesday 24 November 2009

Flag Day in Tajikistan

Well, here's my next post.


And I'll say right from the beginning, that is not meant to offend, nor am I stupid. And as the disclaimer below clearly states, there are my personal views, not part of any organization.



But I have to admit - I relly felt like I was in another world at the Flag Day ceremony here in TJ. Or, rather, I didn't stay for the ceremony (due to the bad weather), but I was there for the 'prep'.



And as I'm watching all this, I can't help asking many q's in my mind.....I know the US does have a Flag Day, but as best I know, all we do is fly our flag. Is there any ceremony that comes with the day?



This was a huge ceremony (gathering of at least 1,000 ppl in a central area). Do we do that? Here are some pics I took:













and more





I was there because I was on my way to do things (yes, exchange some $$) and the do some grocery shopping), but I stopped to check it out.
I was amazed that from what I could see it was school children (hs and univ level (or at least age)) who were all carrying/waving flags. Then as time went by, the military started arriving. No, not military like the May Day Parades we've all seen from Moscow, but definitely military ppl (ie all in uniform). Very unusual - and unfamilar to say the least. Didn't see anyone like "me" - well, of course not quite like me, but anyone who was there just to see.
With the huge crowds of miliary and flag waving youth, the thing that popped into my mind were old documentary footage from demonstrations of nationalism, etc. It was a very strange feeling - and that, more than the rain, made me leave. I also seemed to be the only one taking pictures. But at least no one stopped me - but they did let me know when I was in an "off limits" area.
It's wierd. Although you don't see it on the surface, this is a very controlled society. And the military plays a huge roll.

Well, that's just my own personal opinion. I'm not sure if my pictures will get up here; I'm having difficulty with my internet - yet another challenge in Tajikistan. Sorry. But it does make me realized (yet again) how much I had taken for granted up to now.
So now I'm back in my apt, warming up and listening to some Gershwin (Rhapsody in Blue) - somehow I don't have any Sousa on my IPod...or other good "American music"!!
So that, perhaps, is my Thanksgiving Greeting! :) I just have to keep reminding myself that it is all relative, and I'm not here permanently.

Enjoy Turkey time with Friends and Family! :)


Please note the following disclaimer: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the INL Fellow's own and do not represent the International Narcotics and Law Enforcement Affairs Program or the U.S. Department of State".



Monday 26 October 2009

Random posting

Well, as the title suggests, here's a very random posting. Sorry, but it's like life, some good and some not so good postings. (At least I didn't say "laf is lak a box of chocolates.....")

Anyways - I was really exited to have borrowed a DVD movie (to watch on my computer) that I could actually watch in English - and not have the monotone male voice doing dubbing into Russian for both the male & female parts!

So, I decided to give "Twighlight" a try. Yes - the sighs are heard around the world! Well, of course I've heard the hype but have not yet seen the movies or read the books. Having a open mind (I'm here in Tajikistan, after all), I thought I'd give it a try. Uh Hum. It's like Rory Gilmore (from Gilmore Girls) does Vampires - with BAD acting. Yikes! And, mind you - I like the Gilmore Girls!!! :) But it did remind me that for us 'older viewers' (ie have gone through puberty) "Moonlight" is much more realistic, better acting (and much better eye-candy) . Too bad that was canelled.

So, honestly, if anyone has read the books (I haven't) - are the books better than the movies? (The books are all the *rage* here). Is there a movie per book? What's the attraction here?

Meanwhile, the views of Washington State (or is it Oregon) are gorgeous - after almost 2 months in Dushanbe my body has almost a viscerally postive reaction to all the wet weather and leafy vegation. (And it looks like a really neat place, too!!)

Okay, time to get back to the movie. Since there are several more books, I don't think I need to be terribly worried about the immediate survival of the heroine or hero at this point! :)

And, certainly if anyone reading absolutely loves these books & movies - I hope I didn't offend...but do yourself a favor and read the original B.Stoker "Dracula" or at least watch some vintage vampire movies! :)

Please note the following disclaimer: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the INL Fellow's own and do not represent the International Narcotics and Law Enforcement Affairs Program or the U.S. Department of State".

Monday 19 October 2009

Teaching experiences

Many of you have asked for more detail on my experiences teaching.....



So here goes...!



I am here to provide teacher training (ie teach the teachers) both in English language skills and in contemporary/communicative teaching methods/methodology.



Based on my statement of work (as well as the source of my funding), I am working with English language teachers in the the Law Enforcement Community here in Dushanbe. I've come to find that "Law Enforcement" has a slightly different meaning here....I'm not necessarily working with the police on the streets. Instead, my class includes English language teachers from the Academy of the Ministry of Interior (MVD), the Ministry of State Security (I've seen it as both SCNS and KNB - recently changed from KGB (yes)) and translators/interpreters from the Drug Control Agency (DCA). I am working with these teacher on their English language skills and to give them examples/practice with using communicative/student-centered activities in their language classrooms.



It's a different group than I've worked with before, and is a great and exciting new opportunity.

Feel free to email me and I'll be happy to share more of my experiences!

Please note the following disclaimer: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the INL Fellow's own and do not represent the International Narcotics and Law Enforcement Affairs Program or the U.S. Department of State".

Sunday 18 October 2009

Hike - Take two

I seem to have an *extremely* slow internet connect now, and it keeps giving me errors as I'm trying to upload pictures (individually - yes) from the hike. So I'm going to hold off, and try again tomorrow am, when, hopefully it will be a bit faster.

Meanwhile - if you do stop by/visit this blog....*pls* make a comment or drop me a line to let me know!!!! With the internet connection being so slow here, I don't want to keep uploading these pictures if no one is really looking at them! I'm happy to keep uploading & sharing them if you are reading & looking, but please let me know! Thanks.

Please note the following disclaimer: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the INL Fellow's own and do not represent the International Narcotics and Law Enforcement Affairs Program or the U.S. Department of State".

Hike!

I went on the Sunday Hike for the first time today. I had a great time, and will certainly be going again - weather permitting and all that! Here's the published description of the hike - it's much better than what I could try to describe!
"Dear friends,
This Sunday, October 18, we are delighted to invite to the easy or difficult (your choice of group and distance) hike to Diamalik valley.
It's situated in 48 km from Dushanbe (50 min by city car) towards Takob town. We leave our cars in a picturesque Diamalik village and divide into two groups straight away (one for easy hike and one for difficult one).
“Easy group” will be slowly hiking by the path following small stream with few water till the shoulder top of the mountain for about 1, 5 hour and stop in the shady place to have rest and picnic, enjoy reading, meditating or just relaxing by the stream, waiting for the rest of the group to get their portion of adventure.
The “difficult group” will go faster and ascent a rather steep range (about two hours), from where is breathtaking view suddenly opening to our eyes: the panorama of Hoji-Obi-Garm plateau (where we go next week) surrounded by high, snow-covered mountains. At this picturesque spot we are enjoying the views, and after having lunch and rest, making a small loop by the ridge and coming back to our path to meet with first group.
In this time of the season, surroundings are beautifully painted by autumn colours; don’t miss your chance to enjoy it!
We will leave the city at 9.00 am and return at about 4.00 - 5.00 pm.
You should take some food, water, a cup for tea or coffee, camera, and etc. We will provide guiding, coffee, tea, cookies, beautiful landscapes, wonderful views for taking pictures and good mood. We'll meet at 9.00 at the crossroads of Rudaki and Karamova streets (near the Agriculture University), in front of billiard "Zvezdnaya noch". Transportation can be provided but cost extra. If you are ready to join our group, please let us know by mobile phone...."



ps - you may have already seen some of these pics from facebook - but, not to worry, there are new pics, too!! :)

The drive up to the starting point of the hike was itself quite amazing. We drove N. on the main road out from Dushanbe (not sure what Rudaki is called that far north). We drove along the river for a while, and saw these sights. Not sure you can really see from these pictures, but at some point (probably Soviet era) alot of work was seems to have been done to control the water flow -based on the metal works left behind. (some of the pics taken from behind a closed windown on a fast moving car on a bumpy road....)

















We turned off the main road and the road was more 'rustic'....



















And here are some images from the village - evidently they store hay in the 'attic'



















As I sure you will have expected, I did the easy hike - which was not all that easy! It really winded me! And it was gorgeous. After leaving the cars from this area (see these pictures) we walked *up* through a village and then ascended the valley until we arrived (1.5ish hours later) at our rest stop. While resting, we encountered laden donkey going down (to the village?)and horses doing up higher into the valley. The donkeys were laden with sticks&twigs, presumably for fires.










Donkeys going down ......



....and horses going up. Evidently they were going up to watch after their sheep (I didn't see any sheep at all)














Then we headed back down the valley.....here are some images from our descent.

































How many animals can you find in this picture?








(answer: 3 ....2 cows and a donkey)












And just to give you a sense of what the road was like....looking through the car windshield - which was regularly cleaned with the wipers & windshield wiper fluid....(gives a bit of an idea how bad the dust gets!)













I've uploaded many more pics to picasa. Let me know if you need help seeing the pics or need a login!

Please note the following disclaimer: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the INL Fellow's own and do not represent the International Narcotics and Law Enforcement Affairs Program or the U.S. Department of State".